An Oakland oasis
"It felt like we’d traveled through a portal..."
I know I shouldn’t, but I read the comments. Whenever I’m scrolling through Instagram or Facebook and there’s a story about Oakland, I check the responses, even though I know exactly what I’m going to see. Inevitably, the typical comments echo the “Oakland is a hellhole” theme (i.e. “Don’t go to Oakland - you’ll get killed!”)
Yes, Oakland has problems with crime, pollution, and potholes, but those of us who live here know there are many parts of The Town that feel like paradise. Within a 20-minute drive from my house, I can go hiking in redwood forest or enjoy stunning views of San Francisco’s skyline from a shoreline park. From the top of the hills I can behold a panorama stretching from the Golden Gate to Mount Diablo - or if the weather isn’t great, I can wander the halls of Chapel of the Chimes, a haven of tranquility. But now that I’ve lived in the Bay for 20+ years, it’s becoming rarer to “discover” new destinations and I usually find myself returning to old favorites again and again.
This isn’t really a problem - there are dozens of miles of trails in Reinhardt Redwood Regional Park alone, so I’m certainly not getting bored of the place. But I do love the rush of excitement that comes along with finding a new spot. Especially when it’s within walking distance of my place.
Last week my wife and I were walking a friend’s dog and instead of following one of our usual routes, I felt inspired to check out one of our neighborhood’s many dead end streets. Because Sausal Creek runs parallel to Fruitvale Avenue south of 580, the street grid is quite disconnected to make room for this watershed, which ranges from bone dry in the summer to raging torrent during the rainy season. While strolling through one of the short blocks abutting the creek, I noticed that a chain-link fence lining an empty lot full of overgrown grass and shrubs was partially pried open, so my wife and I (along with the Arrow the dog) decided to let ourselves in.
The lot descended steeply as it turned into a riverbank, but somebody had helpfully tied a rope to a thick eucalyptus so it was easy to lower ourselves down. Once we landed at the creekbed, it felt like we’d traveled through a portal into an oasis. Located just a few dozen steps from the rumbling congestion of Fruitvale, this verdant gorge had the appearance of a sunken garden. Taking in the lush surroundings, I imagined that (aside from the invasive plants and chunks of asphalt) this is what many of Oakland’s other creeks must’ve looked like before they were confined to underground tunnels and buried beneath homes and roads. Arrow frolicked in the gently flowing stream, clearly enjoying this small stretch of nature just as much as we were.
After a few minutes of exploring the creek, we grabbed the rope and hauled ourselves back up to the street, feeling invigorated. I made a mental note to bring a camping chair and a book next time. Within two blocks, we saw a guy driving a car, very slowly, while huffing on what appeared to be a balloon full of nitrous oxide. It was a Monday morning. We picked up our pace and crossed the street to avoid him. A few minutes later we were home. Oakland may not be the easiest place to live, but there’s nowhere else I’d rather be.
A few additional notes…
*If you’re interested in Oakland watersheds, I recommend connecting with Friends of Sausal Creek, a great local org that oversees volunteer-driven native plant restoration and other ecological improvements.
*Thank you to everyone who sent me condolences about my dad’s passing. I’m sorry I wasn’t able to respond to all the emails, but I read every single message. Your kind words are greatly appreciated.
*Please check out the new podcast (and share it with a friend if you dig it)!
East Bay Yesterday Updates & Events
As mentioned in a previous newsletter, this season’s boat tours feature all new stories. Big thanks to everyone who bought tickets to the June and July tours, which sold out well in advance. I’ve added a few more dates: August 8, August 31, Sept 6, and September 8. As always, the tours will depart from the Emeryville Marina and last about three hours. Expect to hear about ferries, fist fights, canneries, container ships, salmon, scandals, an aircraft carrier, and much more.
Please come out to a fundraiser for the “Reflections on Lake Merritt” documentary at the historic Camron-Stanford House on July 10. We have so much planned for this special evening, including a conversation with author/historian Dorothy Lazard* about Lake Merritt history. Also, director Brandon Jourdan will be screening a few preview clips from the forthcoming film. Check out the listing for more details (and be warned that tickets are extremely limited). [*You can also hear Dorothy on the new episode of History of California podcast.]
On July 12, Brandon Jourdan will be discussing the film as part of the Rotary Nature Center Friends’ speaker series. This talk is free, but RSVP is required. You can watch archived videos of past presentations hosted by the Friends here.
Come out to the Oakland Library’s César E. Chávez Branch on July 13, when I’ll be doing a free Q&A with a local author whose fiction is inspired by history. Here’s the description: “Cynthia Gómez's debut collection is a magic-soaked love letter to Oakland, brimming with feminist rage. Its twelve stories center ordinary people - Latine, queer, working class - as they wield supernatural powers against oppression, loneliness, and dread. Join us for the book launch of The Nightmare Box and Other Stories… These horror stories are all set in or connected to Oakland - including two pieces of historical fiction set in Oakland's early queer scene.”
Save the date: On July 27, I’ll be giving my “Bygone Berkeley” presentation at the Central Library’s “Mystery Room.” The event is free and no reservations are needed.
This event doesn’t have anything to do with local history, but I’ll be DJing an all-vinyl set on June 23 from about 4-6PM at Hoi Polloi in Berkeley. Since it’s a Sunday afternoon, I’ll be sticking with pretty mellow tunes: expect some jazzy hiphop instrumentals, dub, downtempo, etc.
In Other News
Considering that most bars don’t even survive a decade, it’s practically miraculous that Heinold’s First and Last Chance Saloon just celebrated its 140th birthday. Immortalized by Jack London in his autobiographical writing, the legendary establishment (supposedly constructed using timber from an old whaling vessel) has survived earthquakes, depressions, and even prohibition. Shoutout to Bay Area barfly extraordinaire Brokeass Stuart for publishing this ode to Heinold’s on eponymous website.
Another local institution that feels like a time capsule from a different era is Adventure Playground, a place where small children are encouraged to go wild with real hammers and saws. Despite Berkeley’s notoriously litigious reputation, this small bastion of creative anarchy somehow hasn’t been sued out of existence by overly cautious parents. On the contrary, according to this SF Gate article, the ramshackle playground is thriving, with more than 300 children visiting daily.
The Oakland Heritage Alliance announced the schedule for its summer walking tour series. Whether you're interested in residential architecture or natural history, there are plenty of great options. Best of all, these tours are a fun way to connect with other local history buffs while exploring parts of The Town you might not otherwise visit. Just remember to bring a water bottle!
Speaking of walking tours, Linda Wing shared some personal reflections on her experience of attending UC Berkeley’s new Black History Tour, with a particular focus on Fair Housing champion Byron Rumford. And don’t forget about the Shaping SF tours, which now extend far beyond the city’s limits. One of this season’s upcoming outings will venture all the way out to Mare Island.
I get that walking tours aren’t for everybody, so this next event is for those of you who prefer to learn about local history while sitting down: “In conjunction with the Berkeley and the Movies exhibit at the Berkeley Historical Society & Museum, we will present a Berkeley Independent Filmmakers Panel on Sunday, June 23. The panel will include Maureen Gosling, Rick Goldsmith, Maya Cueva and Doug Harris.” Tickets available here.
Oakland’s Alta Gerrey, the founder of Shameless Hussy - the nation’s first feminist press, passed away on March 10 at the age of 81. According to this deeply researched KQED obituary, Alta “ushered some of the most consequential women writers of that turbulent era onto the literary scene.” For more on Alta’s incredible life story and further insights into the impact of Shameless Hussy, check out this New York Times obit and this 2015 essay on Found SF.
Sponsored Message
In 1981, UCSF researchers developed the first cochlear ear implant, helping deaf and hard-of-hearing people regain hearing for the first time. After that, Oakland nurse Adeline McClatchie and her team at UCSF Benioff Children’s Hospital Oakland saw the potential of what the technology could mean for families. Over slices of Zachary’s pizza, the Oakland team invented the first treatment modality for the cochlear ear implant, designing care for patients and families around the new technology.
Today, the model of care they invented at Oakland Children’s alongside UCSF researchers is the gold standard, changing lives worldwide. Read the story of an Oakland child experiencing that breakthrough treatment today at UCSF Benioff Children’s Oakland by checking out this story.
Finally
I hate to end on bad news, but David Talbot suffered a devastating stroke earlier this month. David was a mentor when we worked at Salon together and his magnificent “Season of the Witch” is one of the books that most inspired me to focus on local history. Even after he suffered his first stroke, a few years ago, David’s brilliant mind was still swirling with ideas and his energy remained contagious. If you heard my interview with him in episode 109, you know that David was still sharp, even though the brain injury had slowed down his body.
Tragically, this latest stroke has knocked David back down to the mat again and his recovery remains uncertain. In the meantime, his family has launched a GoFundMe campaign to cover living expenses and are trying to locate a new apartment in San Francisco. To get a sense of David’s journalistic impact, as well as the man’s undeniable charisma, I highly recommend this column from longtime friend and fellow ex-Salonista Gary Kamiya.
Thanks for reading! And extra special thanks to those of you supporting East Bay Yesterday through Patreon or through a paid subscription to this Substack. The only reason that I’m able to devote so much time to this project is because of your generosity.
-Liam
Thanks for renewing my determination to discover ways to enjoy living in Oakland.